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  VW Parts Catalog > Body Panels & Repair >

Shock Pad, Body to Chassis, Rear, 17mm Thick, 1956-77 Beetle, Super Beetle, Ghia, and THING, 2 Pieces, 111-899-115A-113-115
Shock Pad, Body to Chassis, Rear, 17mm Thick, 1956-77 Beetle, Super Beetle, Ghia, and THING, 2 Pieces, 111-899-115A-113-115


 

Shock Pad, Body to Chassis, Rear, 17mm Thick, 1956-77 Beetle, Super Beetle, Ghia, and THING, 2 Pieces, 111-899-115A-113-115 sit between the pan and body, and dampen road vibration. Typically there are 2 thicknesses used, 10mm and 17mm, these are the 17mm. Ideally you'd buy 2 sets of the 10mm thick, and 1 set of the thicker ones. Put the thin ones on all 4s, and IF there is a gap at one of the locations (typically the rear one in the rear wheel well), swap them out for the thicker ones, then bolt it down.

Warning: it's very common for the bolt that holds the body to the chassis to be very seized, be sure to use a lot of penetrating oil and work it back and forth to loosen it, shearing it off is a pain to deal with!

Also, if you have a 1968 and later car with a "clunk" in the back that you can't figure out (you'd changed shocks with no luck), usually the rear pads are compressed, and the body has a gap to the chassis. The body is flexing when you hit a bump, and hitting the pad. Using the thick pad and tightening the bolt down to prevent the flex will solve the problem!

Price: $5.95


: 111-899-115A-17MM


QTY:
Overview
 

Shock Pad, Body to Chassis, Rear, 17mm Thick, 1956-77 Beetle, Super Beetle, Ghia, and THING, 2 Pieces, 111-899-115A-113-115 sit between the pan and body, and dampen road vibration. Typically there are 2 thicknesses used, 10mm and 17mm, these are the 17mm. Ideally you'd buy 2 sets of the 10mm thick, and 1 set of the thicker ones. Put the thin ones on all 4s, and IF there is a gap at one of the locations (typically the rear one in the rear wheel well), swap them out for the thicker ones, then bolt it down.

Warning: it's very common for the bolt that holds the body to the chassis to be very seized, be sure to use a lot of penetrating oil and work it back and forth to loosen it, shearing it off is a pain to deal with!

Also, if you have a 1968 and later car with a "clunk" in the back that you can't figure out (you'd changed shocks with no luck), usually the rear pads are compressed, and the body has a gap to the chassis. The body is flexing when you hit a bump, and hitting the pad. Using the thick pad and tightening the bolt down to prevent the flex will solve the problem!


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