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6 x 12mm Hex Bolt, Full Thread, EACH, N102123
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Price: $0.25
Item eligible for Econo/1st Class Mail shipment, min ship charge applies
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6 x 12mm Hex Bolt, Full Thread, Each, N102123 are the same size as the screws that hold the VW Engine Tin in place, but with a 10mm hex head on it rather than a flat blade slot. You can use these all over the VW, and the hex head is easier to tighten! These often vibrate loose, have spares!
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6 x 1 x 12mm Sheet Metal Screw w/LARGE Washer (Cheese Head), EACH
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Price: $0.35
Item eligible for Econo/1st Class Mail shipment, min ship charge applies
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6 x 1 x 12mm Sheet Metal Screw w/LARGE Washer (Cheesehead), Each has a super huge washer, used to cover up sheet metal holes, gaps, or tears around the threaded insert. They replace the regular sheet metal screws which are 6 x 1 x 12mm which hold the VW Engine Tin in place. They are used Extensively throughout the engine, securing the tin and backing plates in place. These often vibrate loose, have spares!
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6 x 12mm Sheet Metal Screw w/Washer (Cheesehead), EACH, N107101
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Price: $0.40
Item eligible for Econo/1st Class Mail shipment, min ship charge applies
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6 x 12mm Sheet Metal Screw w/Washer (Cheesehead), Each, N107101 are the screws that hold the VW Engine Tin in place. They are used Extensively throughout the engine, securing the tin and backing plates in place. These often vibrate loose, have spares!
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Generator and Alternator Stand Gasket, Between Stand and Case, 40hp-1600cc Engines, 113-101-219
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Price: $0.50
Item eligible for Econo/1st Class Mail shipment, min ship charge applies
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Generator and Alternator Stand Gasket, Between Stand and Case, 40hp-1600cc Engines, 113-101-219 is the paper gasket on either side of the deflector plate. Using a thin coating of Curil-T will prevent any chance of an oil leak from this location! You need two of these for each engine, one on either side of the deflector plate.
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6 x 12mm Sheet Metal Screw w/Washer (Phillips Pan Head), EACH, N107101-PHILLIPS
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Price: $0.50
Item eligible for Econo/1st Class Mail shipment, min ship charge applies
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6 x 12mm Sheet Metal Screw w/Washer (Phillips Pan Head), Each, N107101-PHILLIPS are the screws which hold the VW Engine Tin in place. They are used Extensively throughout the engine, securing the tin and backing plates in place. The Phillips version was used on the Type 4 engine since it is much easier to install in hard-to-access places. But using them on the upgright engine has benefits too!
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Generator and Alternator Stand Oil Deflector Plate, Between Case and Stand, 40hp-1600cc Engines, 113-101-221B
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Generator and Alternator Stand Oil Deflector Plate, Between Case and Stand, 40hp-1600cc Engines, 113-101-221B is a vital component to preventing oil being blown from the crankcase to the air filter or breather box! Proper orientation is critical! You need one of these for each engine. You don't have to use a gasket on either side of this plate, if you use Curil-T instead (a fantastic sealant). But tried and true paper gaskets also work great!
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Spark Plug Wire Seal (Flapper Seal), All Models, EACH, 111-905-449A-111-449
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Price: $1.50
Item eligible for Econo/1st Class Mail shipment, min ship charge applies
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Spark Plug Wire Seal (Flapper Seal), All Models, Each, 111-905-449A-111-449 keeps critical cooling air in the fan shroud where it cools your hot cylinders and heads, instead of blowing out the plug wire holes where it does not good at all! These are sold each, you need 4 to seal up one engine.
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Valve Adjustment Sticker, Fits on Fan Shroud, 1969+ Beetle, Super Beetle, Ghia, THING, 1968-71 Bus, and 1968-73 Type 3, Gray Background with Red Ink
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Price: $3.50
Item eligible for Econo/1st Class Mail shipment, min ship charge applies
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Valve Adjustment Sticker, Goes on Fan Shroud, 1969+ Beetle, Super Beetle, Ghia, THING, 1968-71 Bus, and 1968-73 Type 3, Gray Background with Red Ink is usually missing!
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Upright Engine Tin Screw Kit, 12 Pieces
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Upright Engine Tin Screw Kit, 12 Pieces
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Generator Brushes, 6V Generators, PAIR, 111-903-515AX
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Generator Brushes 6V Generators PAIR 111-903-515AX need to be long enough to rub the generator's commutator, you won't get any juice! You can change these with the generator on the car, use a length of thread to hook the spring and pull it back!
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Grommet, 24.5mm (1") for Carb Pre-heat Hose Through Rear Engine Tin, EACH, 113-119-571
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Grommet, 24.5mm (1") for Carb Pre-heat Hose Through Rear Engine Tin, EACH, 113-119-571 goes in the rear engine tin for the 24.5mm (1") preheat hose. Note that 1967 Type 1s need TWO (2) of these grommets!
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Fresh Air Hoses Base Seals, Short Style, 1963 1/2 and Later Upright Engines, per EACH
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Fresh Air Hoses Base Seals, Short Style, for 1963 1/2 and Later Upright Engines, (sold per EACH), is the seal where the heater hoses drop down through the rear engine tin, preventing hot air from below the engine from being sucked up into the engine compartment.
They also protect the hoses from getting torn on the tin where it goes through. We sell these in both a short and tall version.
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Generator Brushes, 12V Generators, PAIR, 113-903-515A
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Generator Brushes, 12V Generators, PAIR, 113-903-515A need to be long enough to rub the generator's commutator, you won't get any juice! You can change these with the generator on the car, use a length of thread to hook the spring and pull it back!
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Lower Cylinder Air Deflector Plate, Upright Engines, 10mm Head Studs, 40hp-1600cc Upright Engines, EACH, 311-119-317A
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Lower Cylinder Air Deflector Plate, Upright Engines, 10mm Head Studs, 40hp-1600cc Upright Engines, Each, 311-119-317A is the most critical pieces of engine tin on the whole engine! These deflect air to the lower parts of the cylinders, to properly cool them. If these are omitted from the engine, the cooling air simply rushes down between the cylinders, and the bottoms of the cylinders run much hotter than the tops. This creates such uneven temperatures that the cylinders can distort, and the rings then no longer seal the cylinder because it is no longer round, it's Egg Shaped!These must be installed BEFORE the heads and push rod tubes are installed, unless you are using Spring Loaded Push Rod Tubes. We prefer these square shaped tins over the "Super Cool Tins" that many people use. These also MUST be used in conjunction with "Sled Tins" to keep air rushing beneath the engine from "backing up" the cooling air's escape, out and back! You need TWO of these do to one engine. These snap onto the lower inner head studs, and "block" the air that flows between the cylinders, fore/aft to cool the lower side of the cylinder. These are often missing, and this results in a significant temperature difference from cylinder upper and lower, and lessens cylinder lifespan because they distort and warp (non round).
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Generator Brush Dust Cover, 12V Generators, EACH, 00-8902-0
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Generator Brush Dust Cover, 12V Generators, EACH, 00-8902-0 snaps onto the top of your 12V generator, and prevents dust and leaves from dropping down and scoring the generator's commutator. Leave the bottom open to blow the dust out and keep it cool!
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Fresh Air Hoses Base Seals, Tall Style, 1963 -67 Upright Engines, EACH, 113-119-585A
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Fresh Air Hoses Base Seals, Tall Style, 1963-67 Upright Engines, EACH, 119-585 6367 seal where the heater hoses drop down through the rear engine tin, preventing hot air from below the engine from being sucked up into the engine compartment.
They also protect the hoses from getting torn on the tin where it goes through. We sell these in both a short and tall version.
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Lower Cylinder Air Deflector Plate, Upright Engines, 8mm Head Studs, 40hp-1600cc Upright Engines, ECONOMY, EACH, 043-119-317B
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Price: $5.95
SALE ITEM! use code TOOMANY30
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Lower Cylinder Air Deflector Plate, Upright Engines, 8mm Head Studs, 40hp-1600cc Upright Engines, ECONOMY, Each, 043-119-317B is the most critical pieces of engine tin on the whole engine! These deflect air to the lower parts of the cylinders, to properly cool them. If these are omitted from the engine, the cooling air simply rushes down between the cylinders, and the bottoms of the cylinders run much hotter than the tops. This creates such uneven temperatures that the cylinders can distort, and the rings then no longer seal the cylinder because it is no longer round, it's Egg Shaped!These must be installed BEFORE the heads and push rod tubes are installed, unless you are using Spring Loaded Push Rod Tubes. We prefer these square shaped tins over the "Super Cool Tins" that many people use. These also MUST be used in conjunction with "Sled Tins" to keep air rushing beneath the engine from "backing up" the cooling air's escape, out and back! You need TWO of these do to one engine. These snap onto the lower inner head studs, and "block" the air that flows between the cylinders, fore/aft to cool the lower side of the cylinder. These are often missing, and this results in a significant temperature difference from cylinder upper and lower, and lessens cylinder lifespan because they distort and warp (non round).
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Fan Housing Heater Outlet Plugs, Upright Shrouds w/45mm (1 3/4") Outlets
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Fan Housing Heater Outlet Plugs, Upright Shrouds w/45mm (1 3/4") Outlets are used to block off the fan housing heater outlets when you are not using them. Leaving them open will result in a loss of cooling air. 45mm is ~1 3/4". If you have a shroud with the larger heater outlets, you need our other set of Outlet Plugs!
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Fan Housing Heater Outlet Plugs, Upright Shrouds w/48mm Outlets
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Fan Housing Heater Outlet Plugs, Upright Shrouds w/48mm Outlets are used to block off the fan housing heater outlets when you are not using them. Leaving them open will result in a loss of cooling air. 48mm is just a smidge under 2". If you have an aftermarket shroud with the smaller heater outlets, you need our other slightly small diameter set of Outlet Plugs!
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Upright Engine Tin Screw Kit, CHROME, 12 Pieces
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Upright Engine Tin Screw Kit, CHROME, 12 Pieces
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Heater and Air Cleaner Pre-Heat Hose, 24.5 X 900mm (1 X 35"), Black Cardboard, EACH, 211-255-359
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Heater and Air Cleaner Pre-Heat Hose, 24.5 X 900mm (1 X 35"), Black Cardboard, EACH, 211-255-359 is used in 2 locations. The small hoses from the rear tin to the air filter (1962-67 Beetles), AND the Center Defroster Vent on 66-74 Beetles.
These are more durable than the silver hoses, and hide oil and dirt too!
IMPORTANT: If you have a 1967 Type 1 you'll need TWO of these, one for each side of the air filter! If you are using this for the Center Defroster Vent on a 1966-74 Beetle, or a 1971-72 Super Beetle you'll also need 2 of these. Trim hose to fit in any situation, it's slightly too long!
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Alternator/Generator Backing Plate, Chrome
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This is ONE of the 3 backing plate pieces that bolts to your alternator or generator prior to putting the fan hub and fan on. This is the CHROME version of the one piece you see! Keep this waxed to prevent rust!
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Alternator Adjusting Hole Plastic Cap, 1972-79 Type 2 and ALL 411, 412, and Porsche 914, EACH, 021-119-295
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Alternator Adjusting Hole Plastic Cap, 1972-79 Type 2 and ALL 411, 412, and Porsche 914, EACH, 021-119-295 is the first item to "disappear" from your engine. If this part is not there, the engine suffers a significant loss of cooling air! If the engine is already running hot, it can be the difference between walking home or driving! This part was obsoleted by VW decades ago, but now this reproduction is available to "plug the hole" so to speak!
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Chrome Stock Oil Filler, WithOUT Downtube
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Stock Chrome Oil Filler without the breather tube that runs downwards. Cleans up engines nicely without using something "too different". ACN Tip: you can use a single port intake manifold gasket instead of the stock paper gasket, when installing this part for a better than stock seal!
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Fresh Air Hoses Base Seals (Short Style), for 1968 1/2 and Later Upright Engines, PAIR
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Fresh Air Hoses Base Seals, 1968 and Later Upright Engines, PAIR, 111-586B seal where the heater hoses drop down through the rear engine tin, preventing hot air from below the engine from being sucked up into the engine compartment. They also protect the hoses from getting torn on the tin where it goes through.
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Engine Compartment Seal, Rear, 1949-66 T1
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This rubber seal that fits in the C-groove on the body of the car, and seals against the engine's sheetmetal to prevent hot air that just cooled the engine from getting back into the engine compartment. If it's split or gapped, engine temps skyrocket.
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Plastic Heater Hoses, Upright Engines, PAIR
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Plastic Heater Hoses, Upright Engines, Pair, are fantastically good looking and durable black plastic heater hoses that run from your fan shroud outlets to your heater boxes, or your pre-heaters on your stock muffler.
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Heater Hose Sleeve, 1968-79 Type 1, 1968-79 Type 2, EACH, 111-819-945
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Heater Hose Sleeve, 1968-79 Type 1, 1968-79 Type 2, Each, 111-819-945 connects the flexible heater hose to the engine, another layer to prevent critical heater air leakage. This product is not available new, we have sourced these good USED ones so you can seal up your heater!
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Fresh Air Hoses Base Seals, 1963-67 Upright Engines, PAIR, 111-586
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Fresh Air Hoses Base Seals, 1963-67 Upright Engines, PAIR, 111-586 seal where the heater hoses drop down through the rear engine tin, preventing hot air from below the engine from being sucked up into the engine compartment. They also protect the hoses from getting torn on the tin where it goes through.
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Generator and Alternator Bearing, 6V and 12V Generators, and 12V Alternators, EACH, 111-903-221A
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Generator and Alternator Bearing, 6V and 12V Generators, and 12V Alternators, EACH, 111-903-221A is used to center the shaft. When these go bad the generator/alternator starts to rumble, and can also develop a lot of end play of the shaft. There is a bearing at either end of the shaft, one at the pulley end, and one at the fan end.
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"Clamp-It" Stainless Steel Generator/Alternator Strap
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This is way better than the stock clamp! For one thing, you don't need TWO wrenches to tighten or loosen it! It also doesn't rust, looks fantastic! Top quality aircraft style T-bolt mated to stainless steel strap for securing 12volt style generators and alternators. All high performance, higher revving engines require the extra holding power to keep the alt/gen seated properly in the stand.
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Generator & Alternator Strap, 12 Volt Upright Engines
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This is a stock generator/alternator strap for upright VW engines. Does NOT fit 6V models!
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Chrome Generator & Alternator Strap, 12 Volt Upright Engines
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This is a chrome generator/alternator strap for upright VW engines. Does NOT fit 6V models!
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Fresh Air Hose Base Seal, RIGHT, 1972-79 Type 2, and 1969-74 Type 4, EACH, 021-119-337
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Fresh Air Hose Base Seal, RIGHT, 1972-79 Type 2, and 1969-74 Type 4, EACH, 021-119-337 seal where the heater hose drops down through the engine tin. This seal prevents hot air from below the engine from being sucked up into the engine compartment.
They also protect the hoses from getting torn on the tin where it goes through.
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Fresh Air Hose Base Seal, LEFT, 1972-79 Type 2, and 1969-74 Type 4, EACH, 021-119-627B
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Fresh Air Hose Base Seal, LEFT, 1972-79 Type 2, and 1969-74 Type 4, EACH, 021-119-627B seal where the heater hose drops down through the engine tin. This seal prevents hot air from below the engine from being sucked up into the engine compartment.
They also protect the hoses from getting torn on the tin where it goes through.
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Fresh Air Heater Hose, RIGHT, 1972-79 Type 2, and 1969-74 Type 4, EACH, 211-261-236A
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Fresh Air Heater Hose, RIGHT, 1972-79 Type 2, and 1969-74 Type 4, EACH, 211-261-236A is the sometimes tough to find heater hose for the Type 4 engined busses, with the oval end at the engine....so sometimes it will be round. We send oval when we are able to get it! This hose is often completely torn up!
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Fresh Air Heater Hose, LEFT, 1972-79 Type 2, and 1969-74 Type 4, EACH, 211-261-235A
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Fresh Air Heater Hose, LEFT, 1972-79 Type 2, and 1969-74 Type 4, EACH, 211-261-235A is the sometimes tough to find heater hose for the Type 4 engined busses, with the round end at the engine. This is often completely tore up!
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18" Long Silver Heater Hoses for Type 3, PAIR
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18" Long Silver Heater Hoses for Type 3, Pair is larger in diameter than the upright engine hose, and a lot more difficult to find too! ACN has it so you can get your heater running optimally. Type 3 heater hose is larger in diameter than the upright engine hose, and a lot more difficult to find too! ACN has it so you can get your heater running optimally. This hose measures around 2 1/4" (57mm) on the ID.
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18" Long Silver Heater Hose (2" I.D.) 028-129-087F, PAIR
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This pair of flexible silver heater hose runs from your fan shroud outlets to your heater boxes, or your pre-heaters on your stock muffler.
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Oil Filler Tube Inside Nut, Holds Tower to Generator or Alternator Stand, 111-115-495
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Oil Filler Tube Inside Nut, Holds Tower to Generator or Alternator Stand, 111-115-495 is that hard to find nut that holds the stock oil filler tube to the generator stand or alternator stand. These are often FUBARed by guys trying to remove or tighten it!
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Fan Shroud Spacers, 1/4" Thick, PAIR
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Fan Shroud Spacers, 1/4" Thick, PAIR, 4552-51 are used to fill the gap between the cylinder tins and the bottom of the fan shroud. When you build big stroker VW engines with long rods and/or by cylinder spacers, the engine gets "WIDE". If you try to use a stock cooling system on it, you wind up with a huge gap between the cylinder tins and shroud, and these shims FILL THAT GAP!
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Rear Deflector Tin (Cooling Tin), Right, 1966+ T1 and 1963-71 T2, 113-119-358A
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Rear Deflector Tin (Cooling Tin), Right, 1966+ T1 and 1963-71 T2, 113-119-358A is a critical but often missing piece of cooling tin, especially on buggies and sand rails! It keeps the cooling air against the cylinders to cool the lower half.
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Rear Deflector Tin (Cooling Tin), Left, 1966+ T1 and 1963-71 T2, 113-119-357
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Rear Deflector Tin (Cooling Tin), Left, 1966+ T1 and 1963-71 T2, 113-119-357 is a critical but often missing piece of cooling tin, especially on buggies and sand rails! It keeps the cooling air against the cylinders to cool the lower half.
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Air Bellows Clamp, Small, Type 3, 311-119-671
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Air Bellows Clamp, Small, Type 3, 311-119-671 is the clamp that holds the bellows on the small end. You also may need the large end (311-119-675). If the bellows is torn or off, engine temperatures can skyrocket! A steady supply of cool air is critical!
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Engine Firewall Seal (Top Seal above Transaxle), All Upright Engines, 111-813-741G-111-741G
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Engine Firewall Seal (Top Seal above Transaxle), All Upright Engines, 111-813-741G-111-741G is the rubber seal that fits into the C-Groove on the body, and runs over the bellhousing of the transaxle. It seals the tin and prevents hot air from re-entering the engine compartment.
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Chrome Air Intake Screen, Non-Doghouse Shrouds
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Chrome Air Intake Screen, Non-Doghouse Shrouds clamps onto fan shroud opening, and protects your fan and engine from rocks and other debris from entering the shroud via the cooling fan opening. Draw formed shape aids airflow despite restriction of screen. Can use on driving lights too!
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Thermostat CABLE, Type 4 Engines, EACH, 021-119-751
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Thermostat CABLE, for Type 4 Engines, EACH, 021-119-751 is often missing and can be difficult to find. These connect the thermostat to the flaps, via a pulley wheel. Our cables are stainless steel to prevent rust and corrosion like the factory cable was known to do.
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Air Bellows Clamp, Large, Type 3, 311-119-675
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Air Bellows Clamp, Large, Type 3, 311-119-675 is the clamp that holds the bellows on the large end. You also may need the small end (311-119-671). If the bellows is torn or off, engine temperatures can skyrocket! A steady supply of cool air is critical!
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Chrome Stock Oil Filler, With Downtube
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Stock Chrome Oil Filler with the breather tube that runs downwards. Cleans up engines nicely. ACN Tip: you can use a single port intake manifold gasket instead of the stock paper gasket, when installing this part for a better than stock seal!
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Oil Pressure Switch Boot, Type 4 Engine (1972-79 Bus and 1980-83 1/2 Vanagon), 021-119-957-021-957
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Price: $12.95
SALE ITEM! use code TOOMANY30
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Oil Pressure Switch Boot, Type 4 Engine (1972-79 Bus and 1980-83 1/2 Vanagon), 021-119-957-021-957 seals the oil pressure switch off from air leakage. These are often split, cracked, or simply missing! Without this boot, cooling air exits the tin upward and the engine runs hotter!
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