This pair of gaskets will do one carburetor twice, or a pair of dual 1bbls once.

Aircooled.Net are jetting experts, and will help you jet your carb(s) properly! We carry a lot of jets and sizes that other places do not. Many times jets have been drilled and/or reamed to a size different than stamped, so we always recommend buying new jets if you aren't sure, and do not have tool access to verify their size. Solex, Kadron, Brosol, and Bocar Idle Jets are screwed into the outside of the carburetor, they are not internal, so jet changes are fast and easy!

Pair of gaskets will do the base of 2 carburetors, typical for dual Kadrons.

5mm Fuel Hose, 5.0 X 2.5mm is the best carbureted fuel hose in our opinion. This is braided for abrasion resistance, and has a cloth braid covering, that is easy to grip to put the hose on and off. The covering also looks "new" far longer.

5mm hose is the proper size for stock carburetors. Hose clamps are not even needed, because the cloth woven on the hose surface acts like a "Chinese finger trap", and keeps the hose tight on the fitting. Some owners choose to err on the side of caution and use clamps also.

Price is for a meter of hose.

Aircooled.Net are VW jetting experts, and will help you jet your carb(s) properly! We carry the jets, and more importantly, the knowledge and experience to get you the correct jets without you buying a bunch of jets you will not use!

Aircooled.Net are jetting experts, and will help you jet your carb(s) properly! We carry a lot of jets and sizes that other places do not. Many times jets have been drilled and/or reamed to a size different than stamped, so we always recommend buying new jets if you aren't sure, and do not have tool access to verify their size. Solex, Kadron, Brosol, and Bocar Idle Jets are screwed into the outside of the carburetor, they are not internal, so jet changes are fast and easy!

Instructions included with all the pieces, NO JETS ARE INCLUDED. However, besides all gaskets, this kit also includes copper sealing washers, needle/seat and gasket, accelerator diaphragm, and idle mixture screw.

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick or tear in the future!

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

Carburetor Rebuild Kit, Solex, Brosol and Bocar 28 PICT, 30 PICT, 30/31 PICT, and 34 PICT Carburetors, 111-198-569ZW includes the Needle/Seat which by itself is almost $15! This kit will work on most Solex models that were used on the VW Beetle, Super Beetle, Ghia, Thing, and Bus.

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

This carb kit will rebuild 28 pict carbs & 30 pict carbs with a round bowl, 30/31 pict carbs with square bowl, and 34 pict 3 carbs with square bowl.

Instructions included with all the pieces, NO JETS INCLUDED, but does have the new inlet valve that alone is almost $15.

These are designed for 12V electrical systems, and fit the 30 PICT, 30/31, and 34 PICT models of Brosol, Bocar, and Solex carburetors.

This carb kit will rebuild 28 pict carbs & 30 pict carbs with a round bowl, 30/31 pict carbs with square bowl, and 34 pict 3 carbs with square bowl.

Instructions included with all the pieces, NO JETS ARE INCLUDED. However, besides all gaskets, this kit also includes both square and round floats and float pin retainer, Needle/seat and gasket, accelerator diaphragm and diaphragm springs, carb return spring, volume control screw and spring, choke diaphragm, rubber O-rings, seals, clips, and even a new fuel filter!

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick or tear in the future!

This valve is on the side of the carburetor body, with a wire connected to the outer end. This is the idle fuel cutoff valve (solenoid). It is located low on the carburetor, close to the throttle arm. This valve shuts off the flow of fuel when you turn off the engine, to prevent "running on." Be sure the wire is connected and has a good electrical contact, and that it runs to the (+) terminal on the coil. (Also attached to this terminal is the black wire that provides power to the automatic choke, and the car's reverse lights if equipped).

Make sure that the idle cutoff valve is snugly screwed into the carburetor body (they do come loose). Be careful not to over tighten it, the threads are fine and brass, screwed into an aluminum carb body, both are relatively soft and can/will strip if over tightened.

You can test the operation of the idle cutoff valve solenoid very easily. Turn on the ignition (don t start the car), and pull off the wire on the solenoid. Touch the wire back onto the connector, and you should hear a clicking sound as the valve inside moves. If you do not hear a clicking sound, check to make sure there is power (12 volts) to the wire (small trouble light, voltmeter, etc.). Replace the solenoid if it is not working.

Jet Drill (Jet Reamer Kit), .30-2.00mm (30-200 in Jet Size), 30pc Kit is not as good as using the proper sized jet, but drilling is acceptable if you go VERY slowly, and after you arrive at your proper jet size, measure and order the proper indexed jets!

This valve is on the side of the carburetor body, with a wire connected to the outer end. This is the idle fuel cutoff valve (solenoid). It is located low on the carburetor, close to the throttle arm. This valve shuts off the flow of fuel when you turn off the engine, to prevent "running on." Be sure the wire is connected and has a good electrical contact, and that it runs to the (+) terminal on the coil. (Also attached to this terminal is the black wire that provides power to the automatic choke, and the car's reverse lights if equipped).

Make sure that the idle cutoff valve is snugly screwed into the carburetor body (they do come loose). Be careful not to over tighten it, the threads are fine and brass, screwed into an aluminum carb body, both are relatively soft and can/will strip if over tightened.

You can test the operation of the idle cutoff valve solenoid very easily. Turn on the ignition (don t start the car), and pull off the wire on the solenoid. Touch the wire back onto the connector, and you should hear a clicking sound as the valve inside moves. If you do not hear a clicking sound, check to make sure there is power (12 volts) to the wire (small trouble light, voltmeter, etc.). Replace the solenoid if it is not working.

This tool includes jet pins in these sizes: .45, .50, .55, .60, .65, .70, .75, .80, .85, 1, 1.05, 1.10, 1.15, 1.20, 1.25, 1.30, 1.40, and 1.50mm.

This kit includes jet pins in these sizes; 1.50, 1.60, 1.70, 1.80,. 1.90, 2.00, 2.10, 2.20, 2.30, 2.40, 2.50, 2.60, 2.70, 2.80, 2.90, and 3.0mm.

This is a great kit for use with large main jets, and most air jets.

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This regulator comes with a mounting bracket and hardware, but does NOT have fuel line barbs, which much be purchased separately depending on the size of fuel hose you are using. If you have a single carb, you can simply plug one outlet port on the regulator and run it as just a regulator rather than a Tee also.

Note that proper fuel pressure is critical for proper carburetor operation. Weber IDF, IDA, ICT, DFEV/DFAV, and DCNFs work best with 3-3.5psi, so this regulator works for all of them, even if you switch carburetors sometime in the future!

This is an EXCELLENT regulator to use with the stock fuel pump. Normal methods of dropping fuel pressure with the stock fuel pump are to stack gaskets between the pump and pump spacer, and this does work but it also reduces fuel volume. Using this regulator will keep full volume but wlll drop pressure, which is more desirable.

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

ACN Tech Tip: you can coat your carburetor gaskets with chap stick. This prevents them from sticking (and then tearing when you have to disassemble again) in the future! This works for all carburetor gaskets.

Fuel Pressure Regulator, Basic, Carbureted Engines, 1.5-5psi is a low pressure fuel pressure regulator that works with most fuels except methanol. Fuel pressure is pre-set to 3.5psi, but it can be set to any fuel pressure between 1.5psi and 5psi. THIS ONE ACTUALLY WORKS, unlike the Purolator, Mr. Gasket, and EMPI Units!

This regulator comes with a mounting bracket and hardware, but does NOT have fuel line barbs, which much be purchased separately depending on the size of fuel hose you are using. This regulator is threaded to 1/8" NPT on both inlet and outlet, and does NOT come with fittings! Buy the fittings you need to match the sizes of your fuel hoses.

Note that proper fuel pressure is critical for proper carburetor operation. Holley regulators are "OK" but don't go below 3psi, and stock carburetors (Solex, Bocar, Brosol, and Kadron) all run best with 1.5-2psi fuel pressure. Weber IDF, IDA, ICT, DFEV/DFAV, and DCNFs work best with 3-3.5psi, so this regulator works for all of them, even if you switch carburetors sometime in the future!

Jet Reamer Kit (Jet Drill Kit), All SIzes are not as good as using the proper sized jet, but drilling and reaming are acceptable if you go VERY slowly, and after you arrive at your proper jet size, measure and order the proper indexed jets!

Fuel Pressure Regulator AND Filter, Combination Unit, Carbureted Engines, 1.5-5psi is a low pressure regulator which works with most fuels except methanol. Output is pre-set to 3.5psi, but can adjusted with the turn of a screw to any pressure between 1.5-5psi. This unit also features a 25 micron stainless steel filter element, which catches sand, rust, dirt, and even water! THIS ONE ACTUALLY WORKS, unlike the Purolator, Mr. Gasket, and EMPI Units!

This regulator comes with a mounting bracket and hardware, the barbs are perfect for 5mm and 7mm hose used on vintage VWs.