Pair of gaskets will do the base of 2 carburetors, typical for dual Kadrons.

Pair of gaskets will do the base of 2 carburetors, typical for dual Kadrons.

5mm Fuel Hose, 5.0 X 2.5mm is the best carbureted fuel hose in our opinion. This is braided for abrasion resistance, and has a cloth braid covering, that is easy to grip to put the hose on and off. The covering also looks "new" far longer.

5mm hose is the proper size for stock carburetors. Hose clamps are not even needed, because the cloth woven on the hose surface acts like a "Chinese finger trap", and keeps the hose tight on the fitting. Some owners choose to err on the side of caution and use clamps also.

Price is for a meter of hose.

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

Instructions included with all the pieces, NO JETS ARE INCLUDED. However, besides all gaskets, this kit also includes copper sealing washers, needle/seat and gasket, accelerator diaphragm, and idle mixture screw.

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick or tear in the future!

This fits flat on the barrel (mouth) of the carburetor. It requires an extension or adapter for Kadrons due to the centrally located air filter mounting stud.

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

Carburetor Rebuild Kit, Solex, Brosol and Bocar 28 PICT, 30 PICT, 30/31 PICT, and 34 PICT Carburetors, 111-198-569ZW includes the Needle/Seat which by itself is almost $15! This kit will work on most Solex models that were used on the VW Beetle, Super Beetle, Ghia, Thing, and Bus.

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

This carb kit will rebuild 28 pict carbs & 30 pict carbs with a round bowl, 30/31 pict carbs with square bowl, and 34 pict 3 carbs with square bowl.

Instructions included with all the pieces, NO JETS INCLUDED, but does have the new inlet valve that alone is almost $15.

These are designed for 12V electrical systems, and fit the 30 PICT, 30/31, and 34 PICT models of Brosol, Bocar, and Solex carburetors.

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick!

This carb kit will rebuild 28 pict carbs & 30 pict carbs with a round bowl, 30/31 pict carbs with square bowl, and 34 pict 3 carbs with square bowl.

Instructions included with all the pieces, NO JETS ARE INCLUDED. However, besides all gaskets, this kit also includes both square and round floats and float pin retainer, Needle/seat and gasket, accelerator diaphragm and diaphragm springs, carb return spring, volume control screw and spring, choke diaphragm, rubber O-rings, seals, clips, and even a new fuel filter!

ACN Tip: If you put Chap Stick on the gaskets they will seal better and won't stick or tear in the future!

This valve is on the side of the carburetor body, with a wire connected to the outer end. This is the idle fuel cutoff valve (solenoid). It is located low on the carburetor, close to the throttle arm. This valve shuts off the flow of fuel when you turn off the engine, to prevent "running on." Be sure the wire is connected and has a good electrical contact, and that it runs to the (+) terminal on the coil. (Also attached to this terminal is the black wire that provides power to the automatic choke, and the car's reverse lights if equipped).

Make sure that the idle cutoff valve is snugly screwed into the carburetor body (they do come loose). Be careful not to over tighten it, the threads are fine and brass, screwed into an aluminum carb body, both are relatively soft and can/will strip if over tightened.

You can test the operation of the idle cutoff valve solenoid very easily. Turn on the ignition (don t start the car), and pull off the wire on the solenoid. Touch the wire back onto the connector, and you should hear a clicking sound as the valve inside moves. If you do not hear a clicking sound, check to make sure there is power (12 volts) to the wire (small trouble light, voltmeter, etc.). Replace the solenoid if it is not working.

This valve is on the side of the carburetor body, with a wire connected to the outer end. This is the idle fuel cutoff valve (solenoid). It is located low on the carburetor, close to the throttle arm. This valve shuts off the flow of fuel when you turn off the engine, to prevent "running on." Be sure the wire is connected and has a good electrical contact, and that it runs to the (+) terminal on the coil. (Also attached to this terminal is the black wire that provides power to the automatic choke, and the car's reverse lights if equipped).

Make sure that the idle cutoff valve is snugly screwed into the carburetor body (they do come loose). Be careful not to over tighten it, the threads are fine and brass, screwed into an aluminum carb body, both are relatively soft and can/will strip if over tightened.

You can test the operation of the idle cutoff valve solenoid very easily. Turn on the ignition (don t start the car), and pull off the wire on the solenoid. Touch the wire back onto the connector, and you should hear a clicking sound as the valve inside moves. If you do not hear a clicking sound, check to make sure there is power (12 volts) to the wire (small trouble light, voltmeter, etc.). Replace the solenoid if it is not working.

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This regulator comes with a mounting bracket and hardware, but does NOT have fuel line barbs, which much be purchased separately depending on the size of fuel hose you are using. If you have a single carb, you can simply plug one outlet port on the regulator and run it as just a regulator rather than a Tee also.

Note that proper fuel pressure is critical for proper carburetor operation. Weber IDF, IDA, ICT, DFEV/DFAV, and DCNFs work best with 3-3.5psi, so this regulator works for all of them, even if you switch carburetors sometime in the future!

This is an EXCELLENT regulator to use with the stock fuel pump. Normal methods of dropping fuel pressure with the stock fuel pump are to stack gaskets between the pump and pump spacer, and this does work but it also reduces fuel volume. Using this regulator will keep full volume but wlll drop pressure, which is more desirable.