This line is straight, and is not pre-bent. You must bend this line using a tubing bender, or bending it over a round object (like a soup can) to prevent kinking the line. Be sure to have a really good penetrating oil like our Kroil, when removing the old line, or you risk a major headache!

This line is straight, and is not pre-bent. You must bend this line using a tubing bender, or bending it over a round object (like a soup can) to prevent kinking the line. Be sure to have a really good penetrating oil like our Kroil, when removing the old line, or you risk a major headache!

This line is straight, and is not pre-bent. You must bend this line using a tubing bender, or bending it over a round object (like a soup can) to prevent kinking the line. Be sure to have a really good penetrating oil like our Kroil, when removing the old line, or you risk a major headache!

This line is straight, and is not pre-bent. You must bend this line using a tubing bender, or bending it over a round object (like a soup can) to prevent kinking the line. Be sure to have a really good penetrating oil like our Kroil, when removing the old line, or you risk a major headache!

This line is straight, and is not pre-bent. You must bend this line using a tubing bender, or bending it over a round object (like a soup can) to prevent kinking the line. Be sure to have a really good penetrating oil like our Kroil, when removing the old line, or you risk a major headache!

This line is straight, and is not pre-bent. You must bend this line using a tubing bender, or bending it over a round object (like a soup can) to prevent kinking the line. Be sure to have a really good penetrating oil like our Kroil, when removing the old line, or you risk a major headache!

This line is straight, and is not pre-bent. You must bend this line using a tubing bender, or bending it over a round object (like a soup can) to prevent kinking the line. Be sure to have a really good penetrating oil like our Kroil, when removing the old line, or you risk a major headache!

This line is straight, and is not pre-bent. You must bend this line using a tubing bender, or bending it over a round object (like a soup can) to prevent kinking the line. Be sure to have a really good penetrating oil like our Kroil, when removing the old line, or you risk a major headache!

This line is straight, and is not pre-bent. You must bend this line using a tubing bender, or bending it over a round object (like a soup can) to prevent kinking the line. Be sure to have a really good penetrating oil like our Kroil, when removing the old line, or you risk a major headache!

Brake Light Switch, 2 Prong, 1966 and Earlier Models, ECONOMY, 113-945-515H-EC is the switch that turns the brake lights on when there is pressure in the brake system. These should be changed when you replace the Master Cylinder, they corrode!

Brake Line Union, All Models, 411-611-789 is the brake piece which connects 2 brake lines together, or a brake line and brake hose.

Brake Line T-Fitting, All Models, 113-611-755 is the brake line T which connects 3 brake lines together (A Splitter); it splits the front to rear brake line (the long one) into the left and right sides right next to the trans axle for example. Super Beetles have 2 of these, one at the rear and one at the front.