Shock Pad, Body to Chassis, Rear, 10mm Thick, 1956-77 Beetle, Super Beetle, Ghia, and THING, 2 Pieces, 111-899-117B-113-115A sit between the pan and body, and dampen road vibration. Typically there are 2 thicknesses used, 10mm and 17mm, these are the 10mm. Ideally you'd buy 2 sets of the 10mm thick, and 1 set of the thicker ones. Put the thin ones on all 4s, and IF there is a gap at one of the locations (typically the rear one in the rear wheel well), swap them out for the thicker ones, then bolt it down.

Warning: it's very common for the bolt that holds the body to the chassis to be very seized, be sure to use a lot of penetrating oil and work it back and forth to loosen it, shearing it off is a pain to deal with!

Also, if you have a 1968 and later car with a "clunk" in the back that you can't figure out (you'd changed shocks with no luck), usually the rear pads are compressed, and the body has a gap to the chassis. The body is flexing when you hit a bump, and hitting the pad. Using the thick pad and tightening the bolt down to prevent the flex will solve the problem!

Shock Pad, Body to Chassis, Rear, 17mm Thick, 1956-77 Beetle, Super Beetle, Ghia, and THING, 2 Pieces, 111-899-115A-113-115 sit between the pan and body, and dampen road vibration. Typically there are 2 thicknesses used, 10mm and 17mm, these are the 17mm. Ideally you'd buy 2 sets of the 10mm thick, and 1 set of the thicker ones. Put the thin ones on all 4s, and IF there is a gap at one of the locations (typically the rear one in the rear wheel well), swap them out for the thicker ones, then bolt it down.

Warning: it's very common for the bolt that holds the body to the chassis to be very seized, be sure to use a lot of penetrating oil and work it back and forth to loosen it, shearing it off is a pain to deal with!

Also, if you have a 1968 and later car with a "clunk" in the back that you can't figure out (you'd changed shocks with no luck), usually the rear pads are compressed, and the body has a gap to the chassis. The body is flexing when you hit a bump, and hitting the pad. Using the thick pad and tightening the bolt down to prevent the flex will solve the problem!

Engine Compartment Seal, 1972-79 Type 2 and Type 4, 411-813-225 is a replacement engine seal for VW Busses with the Type 4 engine. This can also be used to Type 1s, if you don't want to have to remove the engine to change the engine seal!

This engine seal is installed after the engine is put in, and removed prior to engine removal. It's shaped like an "H" with one slit fitting the engine tin, and the other fitting the body.

When using this instead of the stock type 1 engine seal, it's more forgiving of "gaps" or poor alignment of the engine and/or the body sheet metal due to accidents having tweaked the body.

Remember, when installing this seal the shiny side goes DOWN toward the road! This seal is 121" long, 2-1/4" wide overall, and has a 5/8" wide center section in the slotted portion.