Stud, 6 x 23mm Full Thread, Type 1 Based Oil Drain Plate (Sump Stud), EACH, N145421_N144512 is used on the bottom of the Type 1, 2, and 3 engine case (oil drain plate). These are often bent by poor jack placement, or seize to the cap nuts. 6 Needed for each engine case!

Stud, 6 x 33mm Full Thread, EACH, N145433 is normally the LONG stud in the sump which is holding the pick up tube in place. You can use these if you have thicker drain plate gaskets, or a thicker sump plate. 6 Needed for each engine case!

Cap Nut (Acorn Nut), 6x1mm for Oil Drain Plate (Oil Sump), Each, N110624 are closed ended nuts that prevent oil drips (weaping down the stud threads), that's why VW used these and not "regular" nuts! Don't forget your strainer and gaskets! These are sold per each, you need 6 do to one engine.

Oil Pump Gasket, Oil Pump to Case, THICK, 111-115-111B, 8mm Stud Cases, fits 1968 and newer Type 1, 2, and 3 engines, including Type 4 and Waterboxer engines. These seal great with a film of RTV or Curil on both sides of the gasket.

Oil Pump Gasket, Oil Pump to Cover, THIN, 111-115-131B, 8mm Stud Cases, fits 1968 and newer Type 1, 2, and 3 engines, including Type 4 and Waterboxer engines. These seal great with THIN film of Curil on both sides of the gasket.

Oil Breather Tower Gasket, Type 4 Engines, EACH, 021-115-487 sit on the top of the breather tower, beneath the breather vent which clips on top. These are good to have in the garage, you'll replace them periodically.

You can use one in one filter, or one in each filter and T the hoses to even the distribution.

Oil Cooler Seals, 10 X 10mm, Doghouse Type 1 and Type 4 Engines, PAIR, 021-117-151AS go between the VW Doghouse Oil Cooler and Adapter, AND the Doghouse Oil Cooler Adapter and the VW Engine Case. Engines with Doghouse Oil Coolers need a total of 4 seals for these 2 locations. Type 4 engines need 2 seals directly between engine case and oil cooler. 021-117-151A is the VW part #.

8mm Self Sealing Oil Pump Nut, 111-115-161, has a self sealing insert to prevent oil leaks from around the stud. These nuts should NOT be re-used during any reassmbly, they need to be used then replaced, to ensure a "dry" engine.

Oil Strainer Gasket Kit (Oil Change Gaskets), Type 4 Engines, 021-198-031 are a must to keep in the garage. We only sell top quality gaskets, these do not weep or leak like the cheap imported gaskets do! One of these gaskets goes on either side of the strainer.

This is the hose we use in our Full Flow kits, and it's used in our own cars.

Time-Sert inserts are superior in every way to typical "Heli Coil" thread repair kits (which are usually wrapped wire, very weak and troublesome to install!).

Time-Sert inserts are solid, and also have a flared shoulder that prevents leakage, and locks the insert into place without excessive Loctite needed.

The repair process is to drill out the old threads, then use the shoulder cutting tool (To make room for the insert's shoulder on the top), tap the hole, then install the new insert. Hole will be repaired, and will be stronger and better than it was when it was new, due to the larger diameter holding power!

Stock Dipstick, Upright Engines, Stock Length Type 1, 113-115-611 will replace that mangled or missing dipstick that you drove over or lost! 2 Lines, "Add" and "Full", should be checked regularly, since stock engines only hold 2.5 quarts of oil!

45 Degree Fitting, 1/4" NPT Male x 1/4" NPT Female, Each is typically used to angle-route the barb or hose ends to clear an obstruction. They have a 1/4" NPT Male End on one end, and a 1/4" NPT Female on the other. You can use 2 of these in series out of a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator to offset the fittings, which clears the obstructions.