This will fit 1975-79 upright engines, but you can use them on 1971 1/2-74 engines, or ALL 40hp and newer engines if you change the generator stand to an alternator stand! 75A is 50% more output than the stock 51A models, and more than 200% more than the stock 30A generator!

This will fit 1975-79 upright engines, but you can use them on 1971 1/2-74 engines, or ALL 40hp and newer engines if you change the generator stand to an alternator stand!

Unregulated Generator output is over 9 volts, and regulators charge the battery when it needs it, and more importantly doesn't when it's fully charged! Overcharging will overheat and destroy your battery! When this happens the generator will get so hot, the soldering will come off the armature destroying the generator too!

Unregulated Generator output is over 9 volts, and regulators charge the battery when it needs it, and more importantly doesn't when it's fully charged! Overcharging will overheat and destroy your battery! When this happens the generator will get so hot, the soldering will come off the armature destroying the generator too!

All of these symptoms can be fixed for good by adjusting the charging voltage at your battery to 14.5V, by installing this regulator. Many customers have reported their "charging voltage" in the mid 13 range, which is pitiful!

All of these symptoms can be fixed for good by adjusting the charging voltage at your battery to 14.5V, by installing this regulator, it takes 10 minutes to do! Many customers have reported their "charging voltage" in the mid 13 range, which is pitiful! Our personal Vanagon charged at 13.7V, which meant the battery was never fully charged, and headlights were not full brightness! Adjustment is done with a small screwdriver in the hole you see in the back of the regulator; simply rotate the screw clockwise to increase voltage, or counter-clockwise to decrease voltage, you want to shoot for 14.5V AT THE BATTERY.

Aftermarket stands like this one do NOT have the hole shown in the picture near the filler tube, which is used for the Gene Berg Breather Tower Locating Pin. If you want one with that hole, your only choice is a junk yard to get an original stand.

To PROPERLY adjust the belt, you absolutely must start with the belt too loose, and remove 1-2 shims at a time until the correct tension is achieved. If you remove too many, you'll wind up tightening the nut until the belt is "tight enough", but the 2 pulley halfs are not squeezed together, and as the engine rotates the pulleys wear one another out. Every rotation the outer pulley moves out at the top, then in at the bottom, out at the top, until they are ruined. By doing it the 1-2 shim way, when you get the right tension the pulley halfs are tight against the shims and one another, and this movement and wear do not occur.

To PROPERLY adjust the belt, you absolutely must start with the belt too loose, and remove 1-2 shims at a time until the correct tension is achieved. If you remove too many, you'll wind up tightening the nut until the belt is "tight enough", but the 2 pulley halfs are not squeezed together, and as the engine rotates the pulleys wear one another out. Every rotation the outer pulley moves out at the top, then in at the bottom, out at the top, until they are ruined. By doing it the 1-2 shim way, when you get the right tension the pulley halfs are tight against the shims and one another, and this movement and wear do not occur.

To PROPERLY adjust the belt, you absolutely must start with the belt too loose, and remove 1-2 shims at a time until the correct tension is achieved. If you remove too many, you'll wind up tightening the nut until the belt is "tight enough", but the 2 pulley halfs are not squeezed together, and as the engine rotates the pulleys wear one another out. Every rotation the outer pulley moves out at the top, then in at the bottom, out at the top, until they are ruined. By doing it the 1-2 shim way, when you get the right tension the pulley halfs are tight against the shims and one another, and this movement and wear do not occur.